RIVIERA · Menton

Concert

The Grand Duel on the Steps of Saint-Michel

Menton's oldest music festival stages a baroque vocal contest beneath the stars.

Menton5 August4 min
© Peter Alfred Hess / flickr

Why go

  • Baroque vocal duel in an open-air piazza
  • González Toro and Danta: tenor meets countertenor
  • 77-year-old festival, unmissable Riviera setting

There is a particular quality to the air in Menton at dusk in early August. The heat of the day releases itself slowly, rolling back from the pale stone of the old town toward the sea, and the sky above the Ligurian coast shifts through registers of amber and violet before settling into a deep, unhurried blue. It is the kind of evening that seems to have been designed, centuries ago, with performance in mind.

The 77th Festival de Musique de Menton takes that setting and puts it to work. On the 5th of August 2026, the Basilique Saint-Michel — the grand baroque church that anchors the Place de l'Église on the hill above the harbour — will host Ensemble I Gemelli for a programme titled 'La Grande Battle.' The festival, one of the oldest and most distinguished classical music events on the Côte d'Azur, has long made the basilica's forecourt its signature stage: rows of seats arranged on the cobblestones, the church facade rising as a natural backdrop, the sea invisible but present somewhere below.

Two Voices, One Contest

The evening belongs to a form of rivalry that baroque composers understood well. Tenor Emiliano González Toro and countertenor Maximiliano Danta take the stage as the principals in what the programme calls 'La Grande Battle' — a confrontation between vocal registers, temperaments, and traditions that the Baroque period refined into something approaching theatre. The battle of voices, a format with roots in the Italian and French courts of the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, was never merely a competition; it was a demonstration of range, invention, and the capacity to move an audience.

González Toro is also one of the two artistic directors of Ensemble I Gemelli, sharing that role with Mathilde Étienne, who appears on stage as 'Maîtresse de cérémonie' — a title that suggests she will shape the arc of the evening as much as the singers themselves. Étienne's presence as a ceremonial guide gives the programme a structural intelligence: someone to hold the frame while the voices do their work.

'La Grande Battle' is not a metaphor — it is a format, a tradition, and on a warm August night in Menton, something close to a ritual.

The Stage That Cannot Be Replicated

The Basilique Saint-Michel is not a neutral venue. Built in the seventeenth century, it is the largest church in the Alpes-Maritimes, and its ochre and pale-rose facade, framed by twin bell towers, has appeared in more photographs of Menton than any other single image. The square in front of it — the Place de l'Église, reached by a long stairway from the lower town — sits at a height that gives it a quality of elevation both physical and symbolic. Audiences arrive having climbed toward the music.

The Festival de Musique de Menton has been placing concerts in this setting since its founding in 1950, and the 77th edition carries that continuity without trading on nostalgia. The programme each year tends toward the chamber and the vocal, forms that suit the acoustic intimacy the open-air piazza creates on still summer nights. A baroque ensemble performing a staged vocal confrontation here is not a novelty act; it is a considered match between repertoire and place.

For visitors staying along the coast — in Menton itself, or arriving from Monaco, Nice, or Ventimiglia just across the Italian border — the evening on the 5th of August offers something that a concert hall cannot reproduce: the sensation of sitting outside, in a medieval square, watching two singers argue across centuries of musical tradition while the Riviera night holds steady around them.

Tickets and programme details are available through the festival's official site at festival-musique-menton.fr. Menton is served by train from Nice in under forty minutes, and the old town and the basilica are a short walk from the station — though the climb, in August, is best begun before the heat of the afternoon has fully passed.

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